Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
- Early in the morning, joggers and dog-walkers are the only ones on
the Malecón, the seaside boardwalk separating the white-sand beach from
the cobblestoned street with its row of shops. Often there is a slight
haze in the air, softening the Pacific's blue and blurring the sharp
edges of the high-rises seen in the distance, across the bay.
At
this hour here in the Romantic Zone, the only sounds are the waves as
they curl onshore and the occasional whoosh of a passing vehicle. The
row of whimsical bronze sculptures along the Malecón - among them a boy
riding a seahorse, a couple in love, and pillow-headed figures climbing a
ladder to the sky — are their only company. This is not an early-rising
city, and the shops and restaurants are still closed.
On the
quiet side streets that climb steeply toward the hills, people leave
homes and apartment buildings to do their daily shopping as they would
anyplace - as though they weren't living in one of the most beautiful
and romantic ocean-side cities in the world.
The
curving white-sand beach nearby fringes one of the world's largest and
most famous bays, the Bay of Banderas. And the city that hugs its shores
is the legendary resort of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.
Puerto
Vallarta is certainly romantic. It's a favorite spot for weddings and
honeymoons. But this city has more than romance going for it. It's also
one of the world's top retirement havens. It's easily accessed from the
U.S., boasting first world-standard infrastructure, and is home to one
of the biggest established communities of foreign retirees anywhere. As
many as 10,000 expats live here full or part-time. The best news is
that, despite Puerto Vallarta's international appeal and glamorous
cachet, the cost of living and real estate remains surprisingly affordable.
Until
the 1950s, Puerto Vallarta was a small fishing village along
spectacular bay on the Pacific that was modestly popular among Mexicans
for its beach. Then, in 1962, John Huston filmed The Night of the Iguana in Mismaloya, a seaside village just south of Puerto Vallarta.
The
film's star, Richard Burton, was involved with actress Elizabeth Taylor
at the time. She followed him on location, and the paparazzi followed
her. Suddenly Puerto Vallarta was all over the news, and it became a
recognizable place on the map for Americans. And it’s remained there
ever since.
Burton and Taylor both eventually bought houses in
Puerto Vallarta, which attracted other jet-setters to the area. At about
this time, the Mexican government began to invest heavily in
infrastructure—highways, roads, and public utilities - all of which made
Puerto Vallarta more accessible and more attractive as a tourist
destination.
Luxury hotels began to spring up, and American
tourists, especially from the Western states, came in ever-growing
numbers. Today Puerto Vallarta is a sophisticated resort town and the
second-biggest tourist destination in Mexico.
Walking around Vallarta, you get that happy, vacation-time feel that successful beach resorts
engender. Yet, you can have a great time here even if you never set
foot on the beach. Zip-lining, horseback-riding, hiking, and many other
outdoor activities are inland. Cultural activities like plays, films,
jazz and classical concerts, gourmet restaurant festivals, and gallery
openings fill the city's calendar. And you can always spend a pleasant
afternoon strolling through the city's neighborhoods or viewing artists'
wares from pottery to painting.
Puerto Vallarta is also one of Mexico's most cosmopolitan beach resorts.
Half the population works in the tourism business, so English is widely
understood. This is a big plus if you're looking for a retirement
destination overseas where you won't have to learn a new language.
Yet
beneath the international veneer, the core of the city remains very
Mexican. In the older parts of town, traditional white-washed houses
with sloping red-tiled roofs line the cobbled streets. Little
green-grocers selling fruits and vegetables are a staple in some
neighborhoods. And you still find local restaurants where a filling,
home-cooked lunch can cost you just $8.
Puerto Vallarta's historic
center, also known as El Centro or downtown, is the oldest part of the
city and its heart. This is the area running north of the Cuale River to
the Parque Hidalgo and near the parish church of Our Lady of Guadalupe.
The beachfront area - including the Malecón and the street running
beside it - are busy with tourists from mid-morning until late at night.
For several blocks back from the beach, the ground floors of buildings
are commercial property housing bars, restaurants, galleries, and shops.
Centro
is a lively, fun area, but it can be noisy at times, and options for
daily grocery shopping are limited. For these reasons, it isn't the best
option for full-time living. However, it can be a great area for a
rental property, and you can find small (about 60-square-meter) condos
for sale here starting in the low to mid-$100,000s.
A much better
choice for full-time living is the up-and-coming neighborhood of 5 de
Diciembre, just north of Centro. This neighborhood is just a few
minutes' walk from Centro's shops, restaurants, and street action, yet
parts are much more residential. Here you can stroll along streets of
low-rise, brightly colored buildings surrounded by trees and flowering
shrubs.
Monthly rates for one or two-bedroom condos on a long-term
lease start at about $800 a month. Realistically, you'll find many more
on offer for $1,000 to $1,500 a month. If your monthly rental budget is
in the $1,200 range, you should have a number of properties to choose
from in several areas of the city.
Many expats and retirees living
full-time in Puerto Vallarta came first on vacation, fell in love, and
decided to return more permanently. Perhaps one of the biggest reasons
for the region's still-expanding popularity is that life here isn't all
about the beach. Yes, the sea is an ever-present feature, and the ocean
breezes cool Puerto Vallarta in the hot and humid summers. But you can
build a life here that includes all the amenities you're used to at
home, and be very happy even if you're not what might be called a "beach
person." Puerto Vallarta is a real city, a place where you could jog on
the Malecón alongside the blue Pacific in the early morning, then have a
coffee on the terrace of a café overlooking the bay.
Kathleen Peddicord - US News Money
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June 12, 2012